May 2, 2007

Beauty tips: The 5-minute face

By: Elle Canada

Author: Elle Canada

May 2, 2007

Beauty tips: The 5-minute face

By: Elle Canada
You're only five minutes away from your most beautiful face -- and celebrity makeup guru Carmindy from TLC's What Not to Wear is here to show you how to make those minutes fly!

Step 1: Foundation
Application smarts: Tinted moisturizer and foundation go on the same way: I prefer using a makeup sponge for blending -- it makes the job go faster. Dip the sponge into a bit of foundation and blend over the face including eyelids and under the eyes. Lightly buff down the neck for a seamless finish. If some areas need more coverage, stipple on a second layer by using a light patting motion to push the foundation into the skin. This is a great technique to hide redness form rosacea without resorting to thick cover-up. Expect to use about a nickel-size amount for the entire face.

Step 2: Under eye concealer
Application smarts: Since you've already applied your tinted moisturizer or foundation under your eyes, you'll need less concealer and will have a more natural finish. The most important thing to remember about concealer is less is more. If you load concealer on to obliterate a problem area, it takes on a dry, cakey look as the day goes on, and it will actually draw attention to what you're trying to hide. For under eyes, sweep concealer next to your eyes' inner corners (where dark color is most concentrated) and blend downward with a ring finger. Make sure to target only the dark areas of your skin' if you start spreading it up and down and all around you end up with that "I never took my sunglasses off on vacation" look.

Step 3: Spot concealing
Application smarts: For redness and blemishes, spot-apply concealer with a thin concealer brush. The bristles will be compact and tapered, and the thin tip allows you to "paint" concealer precisely where you need it. Afterward, use a finger to gently pat any edges, blending them seamlessly into the skin.

Step 4: Powder
Application smarts: Apply face powder with a clean blush brush. Yes, a blush brush: the smaller size makes it easier for you to target the few places where you need powder. In contrast, a classic puffy powder brush dusts powder all over, leaving skin looking overly matted. Less powder is modern and leaves skin dewier; dust it down your nose, across your chin, and over your cheeks and eyelids. That's all you need. A little can be applied under the eyes, but use only enough to set the makeup without causing it to cake together. I like to leave the tops of the cheekbones powder-free. Even if you have oily skin, having a bit of shine in this area gives you a youthful dewy look. If your skin is too matted down, you'll look dry and tired.

Get the last couple of steps on the next page ...
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Excerpted from The 5-Minute Face by Carmindy. Copyright(c) 2007by Carmindy. Published by arrangement with HarperCollins Publishers.Step 5: Highlighter
Highlighters are my secret weapon and the key to the 5-minute face. These pearly shimmers come in fine powders, sheer creams, luminizing liquids, or light-reflecting crayons and bring light to the face, blending into the skin to become almost unnoticable -- except for a ethereal gleam. Powders go on faster, so use one here to save time. After you apply it, tilt your face, you can see the tones of the color prisms, giving your face and eyes that luminous glow.
Application smarts: With an eyeshadow brush (or Q-Tip), sweep on a little powder highlighter in three places: under your eyebrows, on the inside corner of your eyes by your tear ducts, and on top of your cheekbones. And, for cream or liquid highlighter, use before powder and tap on a small amount, blending it into your skin with your ring finger. The combination surrounds your eyes with radiance and makes them shimmer -- no eyeshadow needed! It also draws light to the upper part of your face for an instant lift.

Step 6: Blush
Application smarts: Apply blush (one that mimics a natural flush) to the apples of your cheeks, which are the rounded areas that stand out when you smile very wide. For powder blush, apply using a brush made for face powder. Its large size will hug your apple and apply the color with a natural, seamless finish. Cream blush should be applied before face powder. It should be dotted on with clean fingers then smoothed in tiny circles until it looks like part of your skin. Add more dabs until you build up the color intensity you want. No matter whether you use powder or cream, remember you should look like you are blushing, not like you've been slapped in the face.

Step 7: Eyeliner
Application smarts: Aim to apply eyeliner along your upper lash line as close to the roots as possible; wiggle the pencil using little back-and-forth motions to really work the color into the roots, then smudge with a Q-Tip to soften the line. This will give the illusion of a thicker lash line, but your eyes won't scream "Eyeliner!" You can use whatever liner is left on the Q-Tip to slightly smudge under your lower lashline for just a hint of color. Chocolate brown pencil liner is a universally flattering no-brainer shade. Cheap or pricey doesn't matter as long as it glides across the skin without skipping, pulling, or crumbling.

Step 8: Mascara
Application smarts: Tilt your head back slightly and look down to expose your lash root. Target the root as the first place the brush hits (it will deposit the most color there, which is where you want it), then glide the brush through the tips. Apply one coat to your top lashes only. The bottoms are where smudges happen most and keeping them bare will save you potential cleanup time.

Step 9: Lip color
Application smarts: The quickest way to add color to the lips is to use a tinted lip balm. This is a fast and natural way to add color, moisture, and protection in one easy swipe. Of course you can use your favorite lipstick or gloss. Cover your lips in color, then run a pinky finger over them to help "push" moisture and color into your lips.

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Excerpted from The 5-Minute Face by Carmindy. Copyright(c) 2007by Carmindy. Published by arrangement with HarperCollins Publishers.
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Beauty tips: The 5-minute face