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Travel trend watch: East coast style

Celtic tradition, the sea and a fun-loving spirit define the singular East Coast style of St. John's.

By Catalina Margulis

Where The most easterly city in North America, St. John's, Newfoundland, is closer to Ireland than parts of Ontario-contributing to the city's rich Celtic history and customs.

Your guide St. John's singer-songwriter Colleen Power, 28, has been charming East Coast audiences for more than a decade. Her witty blend of folk-rock is showcased on her latest album, Face and Eyes. "I live on Gower Street, right in the heart of downtown St. John's. From my house, I can see the boats in the harbour; lots of people stop at my door to take pictures of the view."

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The vibe "Rows of brightly coloured homes line the hills, making for a cheery feel, even when the fog settles in," says Power. "It's easygoing, but there's always something happening. The arts and the music scene are huge in St. John's." The local film industry has also boomed in recent years. The Shipping News (with Kevin Spacey) and Rare Birds (with William Hurt) -- as well as the CBC TV hit series Hatching, Matching & Dispatching (with St. John's native Mary Walsh) -- were shot in and around town.

Big picture "You're talking about the oldest city in North America," says Power. "Because there's so much history, there's a lot to see." Top tourist stops include the Cape Spear lighthouse and Cabot Tower on Signal Hill-- a great place to catch a bird's-eye view of the city. In the evenings, explore the town with the Haunted Hike, a fun tour of old St. John's hauntings and public hangings. "Well worth the five dollars," adds Power. A trip to the city wouldn't be complete without a boat tour seeking out icebergs, whales and puffins. (Sightings are best in July and August.)

What to bring "A good sense of humour and a willingness to taste things like cod tongues, moose pie and toutons (deep-fried dough eaten with molasses)," says Power. "Also pack a camera and some sturdy footwear for climbing the hills of downtown."

Local style The city's few boutiques haven't stopped local fashionistas from keeping stylish. While the number of shops is limited, what little St. John's does have is well worth saving up for. "Water and Duckworth Streets are where to go for designer stores," says Power. On Water, August & Lotta Stockholm and Twisted Sisters Boutik have big names such as JLO, Filippa K and Misura as well as clothes from local designers like Charlotte Reid and handbags from Scraps. (The mother and daughter team behind this label make their purses by hand, using recycled clothing fabric.) Skater chicks can get their Roxy gear at Ballistic Skate & Snow, and for hippie chic, hats and pretty baubles, check out Posie Row on Duckworth. Just down the street, pick up a Newfoundland Liberation Army T-shirt at Living Planet, which sells tees of local bands (including Power) and by local artists. The oldest street in North America, Water is also where you'll find hard-to-resist decor shops like Home on Water, Urban Home and Attica. Stop by Fred's on Duckworth for traditional Newfoundland and Irish music and the Downhomer bookstore on Water to check out works by award-winning Newfoundland authors such as Michael Crummey. "If you want to get a feel for our dialect, read Down to the Dirt by Joel Hynes," recommends Power. "You'll get the hang of it in no time -- and it's a great story."

Photo courtesy of Brian Atkinson/Alamy
Next page


1. Newfoundland's Irish roots
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