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Travel guide: Dublin, Ireland

From its boutique hotels to its delectable cuisine and fashion locales, Dublin is one happening city.

By Noreen Flanagan

Temple Bar, a popular tourist hangout.

MARIAN'S BEST LIST ...

Cuisine "For lovely, lovely, lovely French food, go to Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in The Merrion. It's fabulous and very romantic. For 'modern' Irish, The Tea Room at The Clarence, Halo at The Morrison or Thornton's at The Fitzwilliam. They're perfect for expensive, big-occasion glam! Shanahan's on the Green is horrifically
expensive, but the beef is amazing. I don't drink, but after my meal I felt high! On the more affordable side, there's French bistro at La Mère Zou, Asian fusion at Mao or traditional Irish at Eliza Blues."

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Hangouts "Tourists love going to Temple Bar, but Irish people don't go there," says Keyes. "There are pubs every two feet, and people are twisted at all times of the day. Locals go to places like Kehoe's and The Brazen Head. If you make your way into the VIP section at Raynards, you might spot Colin Farrell, and there are plenty of 'rides' [handsome men] at places like Lillies Bordello. If you're into vogue posing, head to Lobo at The Morrison. For the hip crowd, head to The Octagon Bar at The Clarence."

Boutique bedrooms "If you stay at The Merrion, you're one lucky girl," says Keyes. "It's gorgy!" The hotel, created from four restored Georgian townhouses, is located just down the street from St. Stephen's Green and is one of five five-star hotels in Dublin. It also houses Ireland's largest private art collection. The clientele are classy and monied and the staff are oh-so-discreet. The rooms are so extravagant, you'll be reluctant to venture outside -- unless it's to the hotel's 18th-century-style gardens or their cozy spa.

"If you'd rather run into Bono than Colin, head to The Clarence," says Keyes. This 19th-century riverside hotel was a basic three-star establishment until U2's Bono and The Edge purchased it and transformed it into an art-and-crafts oasis. Its Octagon Bar -- -where U2 used to hang out before they became famous -- attracts a mix of locals, rock stars and tony tourists. If you're really flush, you can rent the penthouse, which is billed as the city's most indulgent hotel room, for around $3,300 a night.

"Very trendy and very hip, The Morrison attracts a crowd that wants to see and be seen," says Keyes. Irish fashion designer John Rocha designed the minimal decor, creating a boutique gem with a modern New York City vibe. Plans are in the works to open a zen-like Japanese spa in summer 2005.

"At The Fitzwilliam Hotel, you'll get a gorgeous view of St. Stephen's Green and you're close to all the shops on Grafton Street," says Keyes. One of Dublin's first "designer hotels," it's modern, yet cozy, without the so-hip-it-hurts attitude. It attracts a business crowd during the week, but urban sophisticates on the weekend.


1. Where to shop
2. The guide's best list to cuisine, hangouts and bedrooms.

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