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Take a trip to fragrance country French Riviera-style!
Follow the French Riviera into the heart of perfume country, enjoying the joie de vivre of Grasse, Nice and Cannes.
By Rita Silvan
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Nice
This gorgeous city is nestled in a microclimate: it faces the Mediterranean Sea but is protected from the wind by mountains. On entering the city, head straight for the Bay of Angels and the belle époque-era Promenade des Anglais.
The vibe A great mix of modern tastes and old-world charms-more laid-back than Cannes, with a more youthful energy.
Why you should go Nice has the best flower market-Cours Saleya, located in the Old Town-in the Côte d'Azur region, with more than 100 stalls. Nice's tourism bureau will also organize walking tours of luscious gardens-both modern and ancient-as well as tours of greenhouses and perfumeries. The Parfumerie Molinard offers short courses in perfume making.
What to buy Every Monday is antique market day, when you will be able to find wonderful silverware, costume jewellery, antique perfume flacons, vintage clothing and art. Nothing is a bargain, of course, but the prices are slightly better than in the Paris flea markets. Other great buys are perfumed soaps from Molinard, Provençal table linens and leather goods in the Old Town.
Where to stay Because Nice has such an avant-garde art scene, try the Hi Hotel, a 38-room luxury hotel with a twist. Designed by Matali Crasset, an industrial designer, Hi Hotel is in a former 1930s era pension-located near the Promenade des Anglais-where the rooms are created around nine different concepts. I stayed in the Indoor Terrace room, where all the furniture was placed in the centre, a vegetal curtain hid the shower, and the toilet resembled a garden shed. (Toto, we're not in belle époque land anymore!)
Where to eat The hotel restaurant is a 24-hours “organic canteen.” Every meal costs six euros and offers such culinary delights as Chinese cabbage with sprouted seeds and beetroot and cucumber gazpacho. For something a little heartier, I would recommend heading back into the Old Town-Nice is a perfect walking city-and stop in at the restaurant L'Escalinada (22, rue Pairolière) for an inexpensive, traditional niçoise meal. Also, ask them for a glass of the local digestif made from thyme. (My only regret is I didn't buy a bottle when I saw it in a nearby shop.)
Cannes
Famous for its International Film Festival, the Croisette and its opulent belle époque architecture, Cannes has everything from designer shops and posh spas to local flower and fruit markets, such as the Marché Forville.
The vibe Euro-Miami. Affluent-looking, perpetually golden-brown Europeans wearing top-notch designer clothes and leather goods.
Why you should go It's the perfect city to start your trip on a high note. A stroll along the Croisette is a must-test your handprints and footprints against the stars' at the Allées des Stars-but venture toward the Old Town (Le Suquet) to sample Cannes' other charms.
What to buy The Forville market has stalls selling artisanal cornflower, jasmine and rose waters that are inexpensive and high quality. They're perfect to keep around to splash on during long road trips.
Where to stay When in Cannes, live large and splurge on a room at the Hotel Martinez. (Tip: bring the good luggage.) The largest luxury hotel on the Croisette, Hotel Martinez has played host to all the big movie stars. A recent renovation has made it even plushier, and they have added a gorgeous Givenchy spa, should the stresses of shopping and dining overwhelm you.
Where to eat By day, save your euros and shop at the Forville market for delicious fruits and sandwiches, but have your dinner at La Palme d'Or at the Hotel Martinez, which overlooks the Bay of Cannes. They have a top-rated chef, Christian Willer, who has created a fragrant Mediterranean menu that has earned him two Michelin stars. The sommelier, André Toscano, has been with the restaurant for a dozen years, has served everyone who's anyone and will find you the perfect burgundy (his favourite grape) from the region.
The best things you should put in your carry-on.
Photography courtesy of Cannes Tourisme
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