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Travel guide: Glasgow, Scotland
Forget the kilts; one of Scotland's coolest cities is a mix of haute fashion, high culture and medieval magic.
By Adam Nayman
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Scotland burst into pop-culture consciousness in 1996 with Trainspotting, putting all quaint associations of haggis on hold. Now, Ewan McGregor is a movie star and the country itself is cooler than ever: Fashion designer Christopher Kane is among the hottest names in international style, Franz Ferdinand is firmly entrenched as indie-rock royalty and James McAvoy is Hollywood's newest big thing. (Next up is Wanted with Angelina Jolie.)
There's more to Scotland than its largest cities - most of it is emerald green, and if there isn't a castle in view, chances are you can golf on it - but to experience the country at its best, visits to Glasgow and Edinburgh are a must.
Glasgow
The vibe
Famously hipster-friendly (it's the home of indie-pop heroes Belle and Sebastian), Glasgow is also just plain friendly-unless you're talking about its rival city. "They did a poll on the radio," says the cab driver as he winds his way through the city's west end, where pub patrons overflow onto cobblestoned streets. "They put a reporter on a street corner here and one on a corner in Edinburgh and had them smile at people who were walking by. Here, he got 98 smiles back." How many did the reporter in Edinburgh get? "Oh, it wouldn't be nice to say."
Where to stay
Encompassing five tony townhouses on a pretty, tree-lined street, Hotel du Vin boasts suites that are as luxe as they get, with marble fireplaces and bouquets of fuchsia orchids. Voted the most stylish hotel at the 2007 Scottish Style Awards, Hotel du Vin is an It spot for celebs like Kylie Minogue. For the full rock-star experience, soak in the claw-footed tub with organic bath goodies by Jo Malone, then enjoy a different kind of bubbly - a rare Raoul Collet - at the hotel's champagne afternoon tea.
Where to shop
Glasgow's famed "Golden Z" is a junction of fashionable streets that are so busy, they've been pedestrianized. The Designer Exchange offers nearly new pieces from A-listers like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and for chic accessories, check out the Argyll Arcade, which dates back to 1827. With its high glass ceiling and mazelike layout, it's like a blinding labyrinth of bling. Argyll is home to more than 30 high-end jewellers, including Laing, which was founded in Edinburgh in 1840.
Where to drink and dine
University students swear by Ashoka Ashton Lane, an always-packed Indian restaurant that offers deliciously crispy haggis pakora among its traditional curries.
For something more upscale, head to the Malmaison hotel, which is housed in a converted church with stained-glass windows and a crypt that's now a bar and brasserie. Sip aged Glenmorangie whisky while sinking into leather couches - it's good practice for the horizontal position you'll want to assume after indulging in chef Graham Digweed's seasonal menus. Opt for homegrown, local offerings like Rump Steak with Creamed Cabbage and Bacon Red Wine Jus.
Afterwards, check out one of the city's many cool rock clubs: King Tut's Wah Wah Hut hosted Britpop royalty like Radiohead and Pulp before they were famous.
What to do
The people-watching at The Glasgow School of Art is almost good enough to distract you from the architecture: hidden staircases and gridiron work courtesy of the school's designer, Glaswegian architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Or head to Largs - located an hour outside the city - where you can board a luxury charter yacht from L.A. Marine and zip through the lakes and watch the rocks for seals.
Image courtesy of Prestonfield Edinburgh
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