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Stop the signs of aging

Your heritage affects how and when you'll show signs of aging. Canada's leading dermatologists advise on the best fixes.

By Trisse Loxley

Island Beauty
If your ancestors come from countries in Africa, the Caribbean or those close to the equator, you have more pigment in your skin and, therefore, more natural sun protection. But even though you have less sun sensitivity, you still need sunscreen. Aside from the risk of sunburn and skin cancer, sun exposure increases the melanin production in your skin, which can cause hyperpigmentation, or an uneven skin tone. One common disorder in black skin is melasma (also known as pregnancy mask); it creates darker skin on the forehead and cheeks and above the upper lip. But any trauma to the skin -- whether it be burns, cuts, acne or an irritation from a product -- can cause temporary darkening. And because you are darker, dry patches are more visible, especially during winter, the most challenging season for your skin type.

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Baumann recommends looking for a face and/or body moisturizer with small amounts of lactic or glycolic acid to exfoliate dead skin cells and combat the condition called "ashy winter skin." If you're dealing with hyperpigmentation, again consider products designed to even out skin tone or skin-care formulas that contain soy, an ingredient that Baumann says has been proven to help prevent discoloration. Dr. Kellett, a dermatologist at DLK On Avenue in Toronto, says to avoid bleaching products containing hydroquinone, a substance that inhibits melanin production, because they may turn your skin grey or blue.

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Laser resurfacing or peels performed by an experienced dermatologist can help with uneven skin tone, but because pigment is so deep in the skin, these may be ineffective or, worse, cause more unevenness. Kellett notes that black skin is also prone to dermatosis papulosa nigra, or small brown papulae that occur around the eyes and cheeks. A skilful derm can burn these off in one treatment with a procedure called electrodessication. The best defence against hyperpigmentation is to avoid squeezing and fussing with pimples and protect yourself from the sun with sunblock or a hat.



Photo courtesy of Digital Vision/Getty Images

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1. If you're from China, Japan or Korea...
2. If you are from countries in Africa, the Caribbean or those close to the equator ...
3. If you are from France, Germany, the UK or parts of Scandinavia ...
4. If you are from Canada, Italy, Greece, Spain,, Portugal, Turkey or areas of the Middle East ...

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