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Natural selection
Organic products are the latest beauty trend, but are they really better for you? ELLE tackles the top questions about going green.
By Karina Goma and Lesley Young
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7. What should I know about phthalates?
These synthetic compounds are present in most nail polishes (to avoid scaling) and perfumes (to prolong their shelf life), as well as some personal-care products, including body lotions, deodorants, hair gels and mousses. According to an American study published in 2005, phthalates react with reproductive hormones to create favourable conditions for the growth of certain cancers, especially cancers of the reproductive organs. Phthalates are currently under examination by Health Canada, which recently began an 18-month study on levels of phthalates found in various cosmetics, including baby shampoos, lotions and creams. Earlier this year, Nathan Cullen, a member of Parliament for British Columbia, introduced a private member's bill to ban the use of phthalates in cosmetics and certain baby products.
8. Are other controversial ingredients used in personal-care products?
While there are no known long-term human studies showing that chemicals in cosmetics build up in the body and pose a risk, Health Canada is currently reviewing 193 chemical substances that have been deemed a potential risk to human health under its Chemicals Management Plan - and 33 of them are found in cosmetics. Besides phthalates and parabens, other suspicious ingredients include the manufacturing by-product dioxane, which is found in some moisturizers and is a known animal carcinogen.
9. Are organic products better for sensitive skin?
Not necessarily. While some proponents of organic cosmetics say that they're less irritating because they contain fewer preservatives, most dermatologists disagree. According to Dr. Eileen Murray, a dermatologist and clinical professor at The University of British Columbia in Vancouver, many people are allergic to the botanical ingredients found in organic and natural products. Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto dermatologist, also warns to be careful using skincare products that are preservative-free: "Preservatives are around to protect us. Without them, bacteria would grow in products, causing contamination that could result in infection." Unfortunately, a big challenge in developing organic products is finding natural preservatives, says Bettina Jackwerth, global marketing director for Cognis Care Chemicals in Germany, one of the world's largest makers of cosmetics ingredients. Recognizing the lack of alternatives, even Ecocert allows for synthetic preservatives in the otherwise-organic products that it certifies.
10. How should I interpret the labels on cosmetics products?
"Since November 2006, all cosmetics ingredients have to be listed on the label in descending order," says Saindon. Parabens are the easiest to recognize because they generally appear under that name (usually with a prefix like "butyl," "ethyl," "methyl” or "propyl"). Phthal ates are harder to spot because they're hidden under the term "perfume" or "fragrance." To research these and other ingredients, check out the Skin Deep database at www.cosmeticsdatabase.com. Hosted by Environmental Working Group, a non-profit environ mental research organization based in Washington, D.C., it lists up to 25,000 substances and their purported risks.
Image courtesy of ImaxTree.com
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Rea more:
Eco-friendly fashion
Eco-beauty
Earth angel
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