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Hot thing: How to cool sensitive skin
Give sensitive skin the cold shoulder
with the latest products to soothe,
smooth and calm.
By Marilisa Racco
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Don't let dubious labelling confuse you. Skotnicki-Grant scoffs at the term "hypo-allergenic."
"Allergy is all or none," she says. "You can't be a little allergic to peanuts: You either are or you aren't. 'Hypo-allergenic' isn't a medical term, and it gives consumers a false sense of security." In fact, says Skotnicki-Grant, "Most products that are labelled 'hypo allergenic' contain fragrances and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives."
Like "hypoallergenic," "unscented" isn't a regulated term and only means that you can't smell anything, says Skotnicki-Grant. "But the product often contains fragrances to mask the chemical smells of the ingredients," she adds. However, the term "fragrance-free" is regulated - products listed as such don't contain any of the more than 300 chemicals that are classified as fragrances by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
The latest wave of sensitive-skin products are designed to tackle specific issues. Clinique's Redness Solutions system - a cleanser, two moisturizers and a protective cream that is also a makeup primer - is designed for redness-prone skin. According to Tom Mammone, executive director of research and development for Clinique, the line addresses the two most common types of redness: reactive (which means reacting to a particular product, allergen or environmental irritant) and persistent (for those who suffer from constant redness). Bisabolol, an anti-irritant derived from camomile, is one ingredient that specifically targets redness. "It inhibits one of the main enzymes responsible for causing inflammatory signals in the skin," says Mammone. "The enzyme can be found in bee venom, which explains why we get irritated from a bee sting."
Other options for redness-prone skin include Darphin's Intral collection, which features extracts of camomile and peony. Like Clinique, Intral's formulations are tinted green, which helps cancel out red tones in the skin. La Roche-Posay's Hydreane moisturizing cream promises to reduce sensitivity with its Hydrolipid innovation - a delivery system designed to permeate the skin without irritation based on its engineered similarity to skin cells. Then there's the Sensibio line from Bioderma. Its patented complex of ginkgo biloba, soybean and green tea minimizes the production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), a substance created by cells that stimulates the growth or dilatation of new blood vessels. Dilated blood vessels are bad news for women with redness: When blood vessels dilate, the resulting flush shows up on the surface of the skin.
"Reducing VEGF means reducing the dilation of blood vessels and, as a consequence, redness," explains Alain Denis, scientific director and research and development manager for Bioderma.
As sophisticated as these new products are, there's no guarantee that you won't react to them, so read the ingredient lists on beauty products as closely as you would food labels, advises Thomas. If the problem is troubling and persistent and can't be resolved by using gentle, fragrance-free skin care, see a dermatologist.
Image courtesy of ImaxTree.com
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