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Beauty treatments in the dairy aisle?

Lactic-acid-infused products are a gentle way to get your skin glowing.

By Stefanie Polsinelli

A few years ago, the popular "Got Milk?" ad campaign encouraged us to drink up to maintain bone mass and to stay energized. But the idea that "milk does a body good" also applies to the skin. Milk is a good source of lactic acid, a natural alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its skin-care benefits. Used in lotions, gels and bath tablets, it gently exfoliates the top layer of skin cells to reveal softer, younger-looking skin.

"Part of the appeal of lactic acid is that it creates very little inflammation as it assists in new cell growth," says Penny Kendall-Reed, a naturopathic doctor at the Urban Wellness Centre in Toronto. Since lactic acid already exists in our cells, protecting against injury and UV damage, the body recognizes and accepts it more readily than it would a harsher synthetic or fruit-derived AHA, according to Kendall-Reed. "It's like a milder version of a chemical peel," she says.

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A better whey
Using milk to treat the skin is not new. Cleopatra supposedly maintained her skin with daily milk baths. But you don't have to be a spoiled royal to get the benefits. And immersing yourself in a tub of homogenized milk will have no noticeable effect on the skin, according to Dr. Sheetal Sapra, a dermatologist at the Institute of Cosmetic and Laser Surgery in Oakville, Ont. The benefits only occur when the milk has gone sour and the lactose has been converted into lactic acid.

Say when
So how do you choose the product that is best for you? Kendall-Reed suggests that people with sensitive skin who normally find AHAs too harsh may respond well to products containing a low dose -- around five to eight percent -- of lactic acid. Most over-the-counter milk-based products contain anywhere from five to 20 percent lactic acid, whereas professional treatments can contain as much as 50 percent. Sapra recommends starting with a low-dose product to see how it feels on your skin. "Microscopic swelling is important," he says. "It will plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines. But if there is noticeable swelling, redness or pain, you've used too strong a product." Allow your skin enough time to heal before trying a lower-dose product.

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