Natural selection

It's no mystery why we're drawn to products with words like "natural" and "organic" on their labels. But can we assume that these terms are synonymous with "safe" and "chemical-free"? In the fast-growing market for organic cosmetics, such claims aren't well regulated yet and, to add further confusion, there is no slam-dunk proof that an organic moisturizer is any safer than one containing the so-called "toxic" ingredients we're supposed to avoid.

So, before you go green, here are a few things you'll want to know.

1. What does "organic" mean when it comes to cosmetics products? Although Health Canada doesn't have any regulations that define the term "organic," the industry consensus is that it applies to products preservatives and have not been subjected to irradiation of any kind.

2. What's the difference between beauty products that are labelled "natural" and "organic"?
The green cosmetics industry is like a Wild West of sorts because neither Industry Canada (which oversees advertising claims) nor Health Canada regulates or monitors how the words "natural" and "organic" are used in cosmetics products. The industry itself generally holds "organic" to a higher standard (see number 1), while "natural" is used more loosely. "A lot of marketing has gone into the term 'natural,'" says Marie-Ève Roy, communications officer for Équiterre, an environmental group based in Montreal. Not that manufacturers are misrepresenting their products (they still can't make false or misleading claims on their labels), but even big cosmetics companies like L'Oréal admit that making an entirely organic product is extremely challenging. "It took us seven years to create Pro-Xylane [an anti-aging molecule] using green chemistry - a process that produces less pollution and consumes less energy," says Sandrine Michard, vice-president of corporate communications at L'Oréal.

3. How can I tell if a product is really organic?
Ideally, the term "organic" should appear on the label, along with the logo of a certifying organization, such as Ecocert, a European body that inspects not only cosmetics and fragrances but also textiles, food and detergents. "If [Ecocert] calls something 'organic,' it guarantees that 95 percent of the ingredients used come from organic agriculture and that the product has no chemicals," says Roy. Other certifiers include the United States Department of Agriculture and the new, Canadian-based Certech, which introduced its organic-cosmetics standards last November. But don't automatically discount products without these seals of approval. "The high costs and delays associated with the certification process sometimes slow down producers - especially smaller companies," says Roy. "Some products may be organic without having a certification logo on their label."

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4. Can I trust products that say they are "certified organic"?
Yes. Even if the exact criteria for calling something "organic" varies between certifying organizations, "all certification programs respect the broad principles of the term 'organic,'" says Roy. "They are the chief guarantee for consumers that a product is truly organic."

5. Are non-organic beauty products hazardous to my health?
Not according to Health Canada. "All cosmetics sold in Canada have to conform to the Food and Drug Law, as well as other laws that specifically govern cosmetics," says communications officer Carole Saindon. "These laws have very high standards for non-harmful substances and require the manufacturer to divulge the components in cosmetics formulas." But other experts disagree, citing unclear regulating standards as a concern.

"The industry is more or less self-regulating," says Madeleine Bird, an environmental-health consultant based in Montreal. "Health Canada doesn't require any demonstration of the short- or long-term safety of cosmetics products before they're put on the market." The same is true for organic cosmetics. As well, certain ingredients have been under scrutiny because studies reveal a potential link to cancer. "Small doses add up over a lifetime," explains Lisa Archer, national coordinator for the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a San Francisco-based lobby group whose goal is to get the health and beauty industries to phase out the use of chemicals linked to cancer, birth defects and other health problems and replace them with safer alternatives. "What we're worried about are the effects of unknown, long-term, cumulative exposure."

6. What are parabens, and should I avoid them?
Parabens are chemical preservatives used in the majority of cosmetics products to prevent the spread of fungus and bacteria. In 2004, a British study revealed that parabens were present in cancerous breast tissue, suggesting that they may be absorbed from personal-care products through the skin.

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7. What should I know about phthalates?
These synthetic compounds are present in most nail polishes (to avoid scaling) and perfumes (to prolong their shelf life), as well as some personal-care products, including body lotions, deodorants, hair gels and mousses. According to an American study published in 2005, phthalates react with reproductive hormones to create favourable conditions for the growth of certain cancers, especially cancers of the reproductive organs. Phthalates are currently under examination by Health Canada, which recently began an 18-month study on levels of phthalates found in various cosmetics, including baby shampoos, lotions and creams. Earlier this year, Nathan Cullen, a member of Parliament for British Columbia, introduced a private member's bill to ban the use of phthalates in cosmetics and certain baby products.

8. Are other controversial ingredients used in personal-care products?
While there are no known long-term human studies showing that chemicals in cosmetics build up in the body and pose a risk, Health Canada is currently reviewing 193 chemical substances that have been deemed a potential risk to human health under its Chemicals Management Plan - and 33 of them are found in cosmetics. Besides phthalates and parabens, other suspicious ingredients include the manufacturing by-product dioxane, which is found in some moisturizers and is a known animal carcinogen.

9. Are organic products better for sensitive skin?
Not necessarily. While some proponents of organic cosmetics say that they're less irritating because they contain fewer preservatives, most dermatologists disagree. According to Dr. Eileen Murray, a dermatologist and clinical professor at The University of British Columbia in Vancouver, many people are allergic to the botanical ingredients found in organic and natural products. Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto dermatologist, also warns to be careful using skincare products that are preservative-free: "Preservatives are around to protect us. Without them, bacteria would grow in products, causing contamination that could result in infection." Unfortunately, a big challenge in developing organic products is finding natural preservatives, says Bettina Jackwerth, global marketing director for Cognis Care Chemicals in Germany, one of the world's largest makers of cosmetics ingredients. Recognizing the lack of alternatives, even Ecocert allows for synthetic preservatives in the otherwise-organic products that it certifies.

10. How should I interpret the labels on cosmetics products?
"Since November 2006, all cosmetics ingredients have to be listed on the label in descending order," says Saindon. Parabens are the easiest to recognize because they generally appear under that name (usually with a prefix like "butyl," "ethyl," "methyl” or "propyl"). Phthal ates are harder to spot because they're hidden under the term "perfume" or "fragrance." To research these and other ingredients, check out the Skin Deep database at www.cosmeticsdatabase.com</a>. Hosted by Environmental Working Group, a non-profit environ mental research organization based in Washington, D.C., it lists up to 25,000 substances and their purported risks.

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